|

Flies
Tied By Jerry Caruso
The SAS
Minnow
I
fish the fly pretty much like a streamer. The Silicone version sinks slower
than the epoxy version and I often fish it off of a sink tip. A neat trick
with the silicone version is to treat it with something like Water Shed
and it will float like a cork. Fish like a Slider with a floating line,
or off a short leader on a sink tip.Colors. I've found that dark colors
on the top half of the flies aren't near as effective as pastel shades.
The permanent markers I use are ones like Light Cerulean Blue, Caledone
Green, Bronze(instead of Olive), light Purples and Chartreuse and one
in Fire Tiger/Perch. Size: I tie it between 1 and 4 inches in length.
Hook types vary with the size of the fly. I often use small salt water
hooks because there aren't any fresh water hooks in the style I prefer.
Jerry
Caruso
I
was born and raised in Philadelphia. Still live and work there. Started
fly fishing around 12 years ago and tying a year or so later but still
preferred to fish with spinning rods, lures and bait. I switched over
to full time fly fishing about 5 years ago and spend most of my fishing
time playing the local waters of SE PA and South Jersey with occasional
forays
into Ontario, Vermont and New York. I fish for whatever is dumb enough
to take one of my flies.

Other
Patterns Tied by Jerry Caruso
(Click
on picture to enlarge)

The
SAS TYING INSTRUCTIONS
|
|
Hook:
Mustad 3366 (#6 used for tying) or similar hook
Thread: White(silicone) or Clear Mono(epoxy)
Flash: Polar or Sparkle Flash
Eyes: Dome Mirage or 3-D Epoxy
Body: White Polar Fibre(Fiber)
Other: Clear Silicone or 5 minute epoxy, Permanent Markers, Flex-Loc
Other
Items that maybe helpful
Needle, Epoxy Turn Wheel, Mustache Comb
Tooth Brush, Photo-Flo, Plastic Stick
(Click
on picture to enlarge)
|
  |
|
Step
1: Lay a thread base about the front 1/3 of the hook shank.
Step
2: Tie in approximately 10-15 strands of Flash Material on top of the
hook shank.
|
  |
|
Step 3: The
Flash Material shouls be approximately 2 1/2 inches long if using a size
#6 hook.
Step 4: Move
the thread foward to about half way on the thread base.
|
  |
|
Step 5: Take
a small buch of Polar Fibre approxiamately 2 1/2 inches long and place
them on the left side of the hook (side further from from you).
Step 6: Take
a few wraps to secure the material on the hook.
|
  |
|
Step 7: Repeat
Step 5 but on the right side of the hook shank (side closest to you).
Take a few wraps to secure the material on the hook shank.
Step 8: Repeat
Step 5 but on the top side of the hook shank. Take a few wraps to secure
the material on the hook shank.
|
  |
|
Step 9:Repeat
Step 5 but on the bottom side of the hook shank. Take a few wraps to secure
the material on the hook shank.
Step 10:
With a comb or brush comb/brush the Polar Fribre so the four bunches of
fibers blend together.
|
  |
|
Step 11:
(optional) Apply some Flex-Loc and pull the material to lock the minnow
shape.
Step 12:
Whip finish.
|
  |
|
Step 13:
Add color (your choice) to the back (top) of the fly. I added some red
gills.
Step 14:
Apply a light coat of silicone (or epoxy) to the body right before the
bend of the thread and fiber to the bend of the hook..
|
  |
|
Step 15:
To make the body more smooth, put some Photo-Flo on your finger and smooth
out the body. (If your are using epoxy, remember to place the fly on the
Epoxy Wheel to have the fly get an even coat of epoxy)
Step 16:
Let the body dry to a tacky state and place eyes on the fly at the point
where they sit half way on the thread and half way on the fiber.
|
  |
|
Step 17:
Apply a second coat of of silicone (or epoxy) to fly now. Thicker on the
head so that the silicone/epoxy cover the eyes. Taper the finsh toward
the bend of the hook.
Step 18:
To smooth out the body, put some Photo-Flo on your finger and gove over
the body. (If your are using epoxy remember to place the fly on the Epoxy
Wheel to have the fly get an even coat of epoxy)
|
  |
|
Step 19:
Finished Pattern
|
 |