Warmwater Fly of the month: April, 2003 - The Whitlock's Chamois Leech

Tying Whitlock's Chamois Leech


#6 Chamois Leech

The Chamois Leech
The Chamois Leech is a pattern that was developed by Dave Whitlock as a warm water fly fishing pattern. In Dave's book: L.L. Bean Fly Fishing Handbook for Bass, this pattern is noted as a "swimming fly pattern". These patterns are made to sink below the surface at a variety rates to imitate a number of different bass food, like minnows, leeches, aquatic insects, salamanders, and shrimp. They are fished with a floating line from one to four feet deep and with a sinking line they are fished five to tem feet deep. Remember that the depth that they are fished ate depends in who long you let them sink and how fast they are retrived. The pattern can be tan, olive black or any other popular combination.


Dave Whitlock
Dave Whitlock is a native Oklahoman now living in near the White River in Ozark Mountains of north central Arkansas. Twenty nine years ago he resigned his position as a petroleum chemist to become a full-time fly fishing professional. Dave regularly contributes his artwork and writings on fly flishing to many publications. He his co-auther of many books, including: The Fly Tyers's Almanac,
The Second Fly Tyers's Almanac, Art Flic's Master Fly Tying Guide, Miguel's Stream Conservation Handbook, Masters of the Dry Fly, and Mc'Clanes New Standard Flishing Encyclopedia. He has illustrated several books, including Steve Raymond's Yea of the Angler, and Year of the Trout, as well as former President Jimmy Carter's Outdoor Journal. He is sole author and illistrator of Dave Whitlock's Guide to Aquatic Trout Foods, The L.L. Bean Fly-Flishing Handbook and L.L. Bean Bass Fly Fishing Handbook.

Dave Shares the true outdoorsman's convictions on converation and has contributed to the Federation of Fly Fishers' Whitlock-Vibert Box Handbook. This is the product of seven years of research and development with the Vibert Box, and instream incubation and nursery system for trout, char and eyed salmon eggs.

Dave is a recioient of many awards including the FFF's Conservation Man of the Year Award in 1981, as well as the Buz Buszek Fly Tyer's Award, the highest honor bestowed in the fly tying world. In 1987, he was inducted into the National Freshwater Hall of Fame, and in the same year he was also presented the FFF's James E. Hensall Award for his work in the warm-water fishing and conservation. He is also the recipient of the FFF's Ambassador Award for Natonsal and international promotion of fly fishing and conservation.

Dave and his wife Emily own and operated the Whitlock School of Fly Fishing in Midway, Arkansas. For more information about the Dave and Emily School of Fly Fihsing and their production, you can go to their web site at : http://www.davewhitlock.com


Hook: Mustad 36890 #2-#10 or any salmon wet fly hook.
Thread: Yellow 6/0
Weedguard: Hard Mono (.015)
Tail Support: Red polypropylene yarn
Body: Brown dubbing
Throat: Brown speckled hen body or similar feather
Eyes: Silver bead chain
Rib: Monofilament
Back and tail: Chamois strip

(Click on picture to enlarge)

Step 1: Cut a strip of chamois about 1/4 inch wide and 3 1/2 times the length of the hook shank.

Step 2: Round the end of the strip and the very front of the strip put a slight tapper on it.

Step 3: Lay a thread base on the shank of the hook and end at the back portion of the barb of the hook.

Step 4: Attached the weedguard to the hook (as described in the FOTH for March 2003).

Step 5: Place the chain eyes about 3/8 of an inch from the bend of the eye of the hook.

Step 6: Tie in the tail support of Red polypropylene yarn at the start of the bend of the hook. The tail should be trimmed to about the length of the bend of the hook.

Step 7: Tie in a piece of monofilament (about 8lb strength) on the back of the shank of the hook at the point where the red of the tail starts.

Step 8: Strip away the fuzzy part of the barbs from the stem of the feather. Tie in the brown speckled hen right behind the eyes.

Step 9: The stem should be tied on top the length of the shank of the hook. This will he secure the feather.

Step 10: Move the thread to the rear of the hook.

Step 11: Wrap lead wire on to the shanks of the hook starting at the tip of the barb.

Step 12: Ending the warp just before the eyes. Leave a small amount of spacce enugh to wrap the fearther around. (You may want to work your thread through the wire to the front and then back to the rear of the hook.)

Step 13: Apply some on Dave's Flexament to the lead portion of the hook. This will help the dubbing to be more secure on the hook.

Step 14: Place brown dubbing on the thread.

Step 15: Start wrapping the thread and the dubbing forward.

Step 16: Stopping your wrap right before you get to the back of the eyes.

Step 17: Wrap the feather around the shank of the hook.

Step 18: Work your thread through the feather and to the front of the eyes. Fold the feathers to the side and the bottom of the hook.

Step 19: Tie in the front tappered strip on chamois in front of the eyes on to the hook.

Step 20: Apply some on Dave's Flexament to the back under portion of the chamois strip the would lay over the dubbed body.

Step 21: Pull the chamois strip over ther eyes and scure to the body with the monofilament rib by wrapping it foward over the chamois strip.

Step 22: Ending the wrap to just in front of the eyes. Secure and trim off the rib.

Step 23: Slide the weedguard (mono) through the eye of the hook, fold it over and back. Make several wraps of thread over the mono to secure to the hook and trim of any excess mono.

Step 24: Whip finish and apply head cement.

Step 25: With a black making pen, freckle the chamois strip.

Step 26: Finished pattern..